When we arrived in the early morning cows were leaving the barn after milking. We were high in the mountains above Aosta in Northern Italy after a drive on roads, and then tracks, and then a short walk when the track became difficult. We were here for the morning to observe traditional Alpage Fontina being made. The two farmhouses used by the family during the summer season were at 2200m and 2600m. The season is short and the working days are extremely long. The Fontina was delicious.

Cheese production in this chalet has moved from a wood fire to gas - to make the cheese, but the farmer is still making cheese twice a day after each milking when the milk is fresh. It was great to see the gentle cutting of the curd - by someone who has been doing this work for 32 years, every summer.

Halfway through the cheesemaking process we went through a door in the cheesemaking room - to the kitchen. Here, where there were two stoves and woodfire burners, we sat at the long table in the centre of the room - where the family and the workers ate their meals. We had multiple strong coffees, with the offer of grappa to accompany it, and the farmer disappeared for a moment returning with salami he had made himself from one of his milk cows.

Contributor

Rachael Sills